We wake to open ocean swell. The National Geographic Endeavour II rolls gently on these Pacific waves, sent by storms from far north. We have a rare opportunity; a pre-breakfast, sunrise landing on Playa Espumilla. As the name in Spanish implies, the crashing waves create merengue from only sea water. This makes for a tricky, stern-first Zodiac landing. Carlos puts the bow into a three-foot break and reverses into the shallows with perfect timing. Over the side, and we are ashore. And what a shore it is. In nearly any other location other than the Galapagos, a beach of this grandeur would be lined with mega hotels. Here, some noddy terns and fishing pelicans are all who greet us. A 50-yard wide ribbon of ochre sand, stretching a mile, has been pounded to a perfect hardness for barefoot walking. So we walk. We find nests of sea turtles excavated by the surf, a yellow warbler behaving more like a plover as it chases insects spooked off the sand by the wave break sea foam. And we marvel at the always present, sea piercing boobies. As the morning magic light gives way to full sun, we are back on board for eggs benedict.
The ship repositions to spectacular Buccaneer Bay, which is walled by cliffs and spires cut into volcanic ash strata by incessant waves. With the able help of crew we load into Zodiacs as they surge up and down the stern ladders. We head in the four directions of the compass: deep water snorkelers to the west, glass bottom boaters south, paddle boarders east, and to the north, kayakers. The wind has shifted, bringing in warmer water, which is much appreciated by paddle boarders and snorkelers.
Following a Mexican buffet lunch and some photography tips by our photo specialist, Aura, we again reposition to Puerto Egas. A navigation light tower, guyed by wires on the edge of a retreating cliff, reminds us of how the operation of vessels is serious business along this exposed coast. Greeting us on this much cozier beach, is a sea lion nursing her pup, seemingly oblivious to our cameras recording this most personal of moments. Snorkeling from the beach affords good looks at feeding turtles and rays, a defensive moray eel, and giant parrotfish galore.
