Today being the winter solstice, and the shortest day of the year, every minute was a precious resource to be enjoyed to the fullest. From the moment the sun crested over the horizon, casting warm golden light onto the almost pink peaks of this dramatic landscape, there was no doubt that our expedition in Baja Sur had begun.

Our morning found us anchored off Isla San Francisco in Half Moon Bay where the crescent-shaped beach stretches out over a mile in length and is flanked by two dramatic ridgelines that provide welcome protection from any winds that might disturb the morning’s activities. Eager to explore and embrace expedition-style adventure, all aboard the National Geographic Sea Bird head ashore and the day begins in earnest.

Hikers set out across the salt flats, stopping along the way to examine the fascinating and surprising amount of species diversity that can be found in the desert. Kayaks push off the sandy shore to paddle around the bay, and for those more aquatically inclined the clear blue waters are ideal for snorkeling, whether it’s your first time or your thousandth there is a host of life beneath the surface to be discovered.

Just a little over 10 nautical miles away is our second stop for the day: Kelly’s Beach. Hidden in the topography is an impressive arroyo, or dry riverbed, that during the very infrequent rains has a significant amount of water that moves through it, carving through the soft sedimentary rocks and creating magnificent turns and curves along the sediment striated walls. After a brisk hike up to explore the comparatively lush environment of the arroyo we return to the beach to find that dinner has been set up on shore, complete with a roaring bonfire. The expedition team tell tales of the mythology and history of the region that is so intertwined it’s hard to tell where fact and fiction separate.

As the sun sets, brilliantly lighting up a few fleeting clouds, dusk finally falls and the stars begin to appear until the sky glitters. Unobscured except for the towering silhouettes of the cardon cacti, the universe unfolds around us and we end a very full day under the majestic canvas billions of years in the making. It’s hard to believe that was just day one.