An overcast morning greeted National Geographic Resolution as it cruised along the northern side of Isla de los Estados. As black-browed albatrosses (Thalassarche melanophris) danced around the ship, we took shelter in a deep fiord (Pto. Cook) protected from the Antarctic winds. After enjoying the scenery during an amazing breakfast, Zodiacs departed for shore. Guests landed on a large pebble beach and began a short hike across the island from the north to south shores. The hike took naturalists and guests across a range of Patagonian ecosystems, including intertidal, peatlands, grasslands, and evergreen forests. Upon arriving at the southern side of Isla de los Estados, several unique bird and marine species were discovered along with strong southern winds. After returning to the ship, guests enjoyed lunch as we transited east along the protected leeward side of the island. A second landing site was discovered inside a 3.5-kilometer-long fiord. After landing, guests and staff set off on a short hike through the windblown trees to a small lighthouse, the San Juan of Salvamento Lighthouse (“The Lighthouse at the End of the World”). We visited the site and explored the interior of the lighthouse, and then guests hiked back to the ship. Upon returning to the beach and transiting back to the ship, we departed for the southern side of the island. During our transit, a small pod of killer whales was encountered cruising along the coastline off the portside of the vessel. As the evening came to a close, staff began a recap and a discussion of the plants, animals, history, and geology witnessed throughout the day. Another amazing day came to an end as guests enjoyed a delicious meal and engaged in passionate conversations.
11/8/2023
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National Geographic Explorer
Staten Island
Today was our last full day on board, so the decision was made to go big before we go home! National Geographic Explorer positioned beside Observatory Island at 5:00 am, and the deck crew dropped our Zodiacs as the sun rose behind the rugged peaks of Staten Island. We were going for a pre-breakfast cruise! Expedition travel always means being flexible, as changing weather and other factors can mean an abrupt change in plan. But this was yet another morning when we were able to accomplish Plan A. Near-windless conditions meant for a slow, glassy, rolling swell. That, coupled with the slanted golden light of early morning, made for a photographer’s dream! Observatory Island is seldom visited by anyone. The fur seals were curious about us, approaching our Zodiacs and kicking and splashing. We observed many bird species we had not yet seen on this voyage, ranging from snowy sheathbills (common in Antarctica) to black-faced ibises, and we had wonderfully close views of Magellanic penguins, both on land and at sea. By 8:00 am, we were back on the ship for a hot breakfast as we headed for Cabo San Juan and the famous “Lighthouse at the End of the World” on the remote eastern tip of Staten Island. With glassy sea conditions and the sun beating down on us, the weather was decidedly “un-Patagonian.” In fact, it was nearly tropical! It was perfect for a hike over rolling hills of spongy peat bog up to the lighthouse, where we looked down at our ship anchored in the turquoise waters of the kelp-fringed bay. It was a stunning end to an amazing nine days of Patagonian exploration. After lunch, National Geographic Explorer turned back westward and headed over sun-spangled seas towards Ushuaia, where we will finish our voyage tomorrow.
