Lord of the Glens set off from Inverie on calm seas, bound for our last stop at the Kyle of Lochalsh. The day brightened and the sun shone as manx shearwaters and gannets ushered the boat along the way. Midmorning, Catherine began a presentation of her photographs but was interrupted by the appearance of a large pod of bottlenose dolphins. Over 20 dolphins surrounded the ship, gracefully rising then diving as they fished for mackerel. Occasionally, two or three dolphins would slap the water with their tails, and the pod would shift direction. We speculated that the tail-slapping communicated the direction that the fish moved, allowing the dolphins to closely follow the school. The boat paused while we watched the dolphins with delight, standing outside under blue skies.
The boat pushed against eight-knot currents as we approached the Kyle of Lochalsh, the sea constricted by the narrow strait at this point, making for strong tides. We spotted a few seals in this area before docking just at lunchtime.
After lunch, part of the group set off with Ian and Robin for a hike in Glen Sligachan, a valley running through the heart of the Cuillin mountains. The weather deteriorated into rain once again, but that didn’t stop the group as they made their way up the valley to stand surrounded by the peaks and pinnacles of Skye’s most rugged mountains. Sheepherders were moving their flock down the valley, providing a chance to watch the herders and their sheep dogs at work. On returning to the trailhead, the group took the chance to dry off in the Seamus pub, famous for its offering of over 400 malt whiskies.
The other group set off with David and Catherine to visit Eilean Donan Castle and the village of Plockton. Built in the 13th century, the Eilean Donan was destroyed during the 18th century Jacobite uprising. In 1911, Lieutenant Colonel John MacRae-Gilstrap bought and restored the castle, so that it was reopened in 1932. The formidable structure is now one of the most visited locations in the Scottish Highlands. The small village of Plockton provided a contrasting view of the Highlands, with picturesque streets and a seaside promenade.
We celebrated a wonderful week together at the Captain’s Farewell Dinner. Our hotel manager Brian started dinner off with a presentation of Scotland’s national delicacy: haggis. A bagpiper played as the haggis was ceremoniously carried into the dining room, where Brian gave a rousing rendition of Robert Burns “Address to a Haggis” before hacking the haggis into bits. Later, we enjoyed a very fine starter of haggis, neeps, and tatties (turnips and potatoes).
Tomorrow, our group will separate, heading off in different directions. The week has been full of exceptional Scottish sights, scenery, and history. Memories and friendships were created during the tour, with lots of laughter, good conversations, and yes, a wee bit of rain. Thanks to all the crew, staff, and especially the wonderful guests who made it a week to remember.
