The sunrays beaming through the shifting clouds on Stromness Harbor were a welcoming sight just after 5 a.m. Last evening, Captain Skog snugged the National Geographic Explorer up the shoreline in Stromness for a unique oblique perspective of this historic whaling community. The early birds this morning were treated to freshly covered, snow-capped peaks that surround this scenic bay and the opportunity to safely watch the sparing Antarctic fur seals vying for the coveted beach master spot. As we left the harbor, the clouds parted and the sun revealed the subtle rust colors of the old whaling station buildings against the green of the tussock grass and meadow. Our morning activity took place just west around Cape Saunders in the scenic mountainous amphitheater of Hercules Bay. The sun brightly lit the turquoise-colored ocean as we pulled into this protected bay surrounded by 3,000-foot peaks covered in nesting birds. From the safety of our Zodiacs, our first wildlife sighting was a close up of the macaroni penguins exiting the water and preening their feathers. Other notable sightings were the light-mantled sooty albatrosses as well as the Antarctic fur seals and southern elephant seals hauled out on the beach below a spectacular waterfall.
After lunch we transferred the ship to the next bay to the west; Fortuna Bay, which is where Ernest Shackleton and two of his crew mistaken for Stromness Bay during their epic walk across South Georgia after being shipwrecked and their arduous open boat journey from Antarctica. They had to retrace their path back over the glacier to the next bay occupied by whalers for their ultimate rescue and one of the most epic open boat journeys across the Southern Ocean. Spectacular snow-covered mountains surround this lush glacial outwash plain with waterfalls cascading into small streams. Large elephant seals and Antarctic fur seals occupied the beach and a large colony of king penguins gathered at the base of the mountains. The sight and sounds of thousands of penguins calling to their young was unforgettable. Many more exciting adventures to come.
