The DER below is from the expedition to Cuba that began on December 21, 2016.
All of us were experienced travelers, but this time everything was different. Miami International Airport, Concourse D, a table set up for us in order to distribute paperwork, hand out special visas. Precision was emphasized, no mistakes please.
Finally we boarded – surrounded by Cubans heading to the island to visit family and friends; the holidays are coming, so suitcases were more numerous than normal. A huge child-sized stuffed Mickey Mouse sat in someone’s lap the whole way. These “regular” commercial flights to Havana have only been going for a few weeks, so the seeming “normalcy” of them was precisely what was so unusual.
On arrival into Havana we had to put into practice what we had been forewarned to bring, and that was patience. But all the people-watching was fascinating and made the time pass rather well. It was a thrill to get a real Cuban stamp in our passports!
After all the luggage and guests were on the buses, we set out for “La Divina Pastora” restaurant on the water’s edge of the channel leading into Havana Bay. Havana is a large city and we traversed from one side to the other, south to north.
As our local guides spoke a bit about the history, and prepared us logistically for the next few days, the scenery out the windows gave us our first look at a country so unlike our own, yet at the same time showed many aspects with which we were familiar – traffic lights, school children, apartment blocks. But the difference was in the details: no advertising on bill boards, many abandoned buildings and apartments, lots of old cars and many deteriorating building facades. On the other hand, there were also signs of reconstruction going on. Scaffolding around cupolas and statues, clean stonework, chic bars and restaurants scattered here and there…change is on the way.
Lunch was fabulous – lobster tails – and then we set off for a performance at the Habana Compas Dance Company. What an extraordinary group of talented young people! A dance studio where all are welcome at no charge, starting as young as 4 to 5 years old. At this age they learn to catch and move to the rhythms of afro-Cuban beats. At 7 years old they start to learn about the drums. These hand-carved drums have a strong religious significance, and traditionally are not played by women. However the manager/director of the group firmly believes that religious beliefs play no part in their dance company, and this group was primarily female. I was “blown away” to put it mildly. Bongos, “boxes,” deep hide-covered drums with carved faces, and…chairs! It was amazing to see these talented people, primarily women, use even wooden chairs as their percussion instruments! Mesmerizing! It certainly got our feet tapping, and so it was a joy to be able to join them on stage for a last dance to syncopated Afro-Cuban drum beats!
As the buses repositioned to pick us up from this stimulating visit, we watched the local inhabitants of Havana go about their day; in one brief glimpse, I saw one of the famous older-model cars in great condition come sailing down the street…with a stars-and-stripes mini-flag blowing high off the rear antennae! My how things have changed lately!
A quick registering in at the famous Hotel Nacional allowed us time to drop off our hand-luggage, meet up with our suitcases and later sit on the terrace for a drink, all before meeting up once more to head out for dinner. But we didn’t just “go to dinner”…we went in style! Everyone left the semi-circular drive in one of the best, shiniest old-model cars in the city, and in style we set off down the “malecon” (waterfront) to the “Moneda Dorada” in old Havana.
Before the revolution the first floor was a food and liquor warehouse; afterwards, simply the family home. Now it is known as a “paladar,” a private residence that is (since 2010) allowed to offer limited seating dining; still located inside the family home. It was quite the experience to have a delicious dinner surrounded by reproductions of the Mona Lisa and the Last Supper on the walls!
By the time we returned to the hotel, almost everyone was ready to call it a day. Some gave in to temptation, and sat once more on the wonderful terrace of the Hotel Nacional with drink and (for some) a cigar in hand…cool breeze, perfect temperature…what a start!
