The day started early (0230!) for some guests when the call came over the P.A. system about the northern lights (aurora borealis) display. As National Geographic Sea Lion traveled north in Glacier Bay National Park, the Great Bear constellation (Big Dipper - Ursa major, the symbol on Alaska’s state flag) was draped in shifting curtains of green light. We were fortunate to have the rare combination of conditions necessary for good viewing of this phenomenon—clear dark skies and charged particles from the sun entering the earth’s atmosphere and interacting with various gases.
By dawn we were situated in front of Margerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers at the end of Tarr Inlet—the northernmost extent of our voyage. Sunlight illuminated the high peaks behind Margerie Glacier, which tumbles twenty one miles down to the ocean and calves icebergs into the sea. We witnessed a few calving events, accompanied by a great splash and a tremendous roar: “white thunder”. Sipping coffee and hot chocolate on the deck we basked in the sights and sounds and warm sunshine until breakfast.
Traveling with us today were National Park Ranger Kira, and Tlingit Cultural Interpreter Victor. Throughout the day they related stories and events that brought to life the dramatic history of this glacier-dominated land.
A call from the bridge alerted us to an animal swimming across the channel. It turned out to be a female moose. Then we noticed two other moose on the land—an antlered male (bull) and a female (cow)—that walked back into the bushes. We followed the swimming moose one and one half miles to the other side and watched as it emerged onto the bank and nonchalantly strolled off. Moose are relative new-comers to Glacier Bay National Park and usually difficult to see, so it was a surprise and a treat to see three at once!
A short while later some black wolves were spotted on the shore—two adults and a pup. There were likely more nearby as we could hear them howling. According to a recent study, the black color of many Alaskan wolves is due to interbreeding with domesticated dogs.
We entered Johns Hopkins Inlet and cruised past Jaw Point toward the glacier at the end. The Johns Hopkins Glacier is said to be slowly advancing while the vast majority of glaciers world-wide are in retreat. The Fairweather Mountains—the highest coastal mountain range in the world, visible today—catch the moisture from the ocean in the form of snow and feed the Johns Hopkins and other glaciers in the area. Fall is in the air here with tinges of color in the cottonwood trees and tundra vegetation and there was a new dusting of snow on the high peaks due to a recent storm.
At Gloomy Knob we found mountain goats, some sprawled in the sun, others trying to find some shade. On a warm, sunny day, mountain goats will often lay in a snow patch to keep cool. After last winter’s low snowfall, there is little snow remaining to give relief to the goats.
As we moved down-bay we enjoyed sightings of sea otters, harbor porpoises, various birds and a humpback whale. The seabird nesting colony of South Marble Island was a busy place as we paused to take a look. Pelagic cormorants, black-legged kittiwakes, glaucous-winged gulls, common murres, black oystercatchers and both tufted and horned puffins were among the bird species found here. This is also a popular haul-out area for Steller sea lions and there were even a few mother-pup nursing pairs seen.
Next we visited Boulder Island to watch sea otters amongst the kelp. This is another recent arrival that has proliferated in recent years with the protection and abundance in the park.
After dinner there was a chance to get off the vessel at park headquarters in Bartlett Cove for quick walks and a visit to the humpback whale skeleton and lodge area. After an amazing day of sunshine, stunning scenery and wildlife in Glacier Bay National Park, National Geographic Sea Lion departed this gem of a park toward other adventures.
