Daybreak found National Geographic Sea Lion entering Tarr Inlet, at the northern end of Glacier Bay National Park. Low clouds drifted along the sides of steep mountains as we passed through squalls of misting rain. By breakfast we had reached the end of the bay to sit in wonder before the Margerie and Grand Pacific glaciers. We spent over an hour at their faces, and our patience was rewarded as multiple large towers of ice came thundering down into the gray-green water in booming cascades.
We moved south towards the entrance of Johns Hopkins Inlet. The cloud level dropped to less than 100 feet, and banks of fog shifted and faded as we picked our way through the scattered ice. Johns Hopkins Glacier rose out of the mist, and we arrived in time to witness even more spectacular calving. The sun broke through the clouds of fog as we left, adding a surreal beauty to Lamplugh Glacier as we headed south once more.
The wind picked up suddenly, kicking up whitecaps and spray. Our cultural interpreter, Bertha Franulovich, shared stories of her childhood and the wisdom of the Huna Tlingit. At Gloomy Knob, a barren outcropping of polished granite, we watched as mountain goats lazily grazed and navigated the steep cliffs with ease. National Park Service Ranger Dan Zorbist told us about the call of the wild that brings thousands of people every year to Glacier Bay.
On South Marble Island we had beautiful sightings of numerous seabirds, including black-legged kittiwakes, common murres, and the ever popular tufted puffins. Hundreds of Steller’s sea lions lounged in noisome piles atop the smooth rocks, constantly grumbling and growling at one another in the early evening light. The wind calmed as we approached Bartlett Cove, giving us a chance to stretch our legs around the park headquarters in the waning light of the day.
It is incredible as it is humbling to think that the entire expanse of Glacier Bay was carved completely by immense rivers of ice. We had a wide range of weather today in the bay, everything from sun to autumnal storms, but there was not a single moment or vista that was not absolutely stunning.
