This morning Captain Teran of the National Geographic Islander carefully entered the flooded caldera of Genovesa Island before dawn and anchored near the cliffs on the northern edge of Darwin Bay. A group of early risers went on a morning paddle along the dramatic cliffs and enjoyed seeing myriad seabirds of various species. There were also several fur seals hiding in shallow caves but they are at first difficult to distinguish from the more common sea lions. Back on board the ship the kayakers joined us for a hearty breakfast.
We disembarked at 8:30 a.m. in three groups with our naturalists – Jonathan, Walter and Greg – and had an outstanding morning’s visit. The first half of the trail was along a white coral sand and coral pebble beach margin. We walked slowly and photographed much, because on Genovesa there are several hundred thousand birds! Red-footed boobies were perched and nesting in the mangrove shrubs – and to our amazement they came in two color phases (beige and white) and had the most outrageous baby blue and pink bills, not to mention bright red prehensile feet with which they clung to branches and twigs. Great frigate birds nested in the low salt bushes and many of them had fluffy, white, adorable chicks. We saw yellow crowned night herons, rudy turnstones, several species of finches and mocking birds, too. If any of our guests did not enjoy birds before this week’s expedition they all do now! What plentiful, beautiful, varied, and elegant birds we saw this morning! And one can get up so close and intimate that it really is quite a thrill.
Those who wished continued on to the end of the trail, climbed across jagged lava, found more of all the bird species and reached an overlook. We then returned to the beach where a few sea lions were resting and chose to either return to the ship to relax and prepare for the snorkeling outing or stay for a while on the beach. Everyone enjoyed their option. Those who relaxed certainly deserved the down time after our full and busy week. Two Zodiacs of snorkelers found colorful fish, a few sea lions and fair visibility as they swam along at the base of the cliffs. And for the little group of four of us who stayed on the beach among the birds and sea lions it was simply bliss! Where else in the world can you be among so many and varied wild creatures that do not fear you?
The afternoon walk began with a dry landing and a climb up the steep cliff on a rugged stairs called “Prince Phillips’ Steps.” We came first to the nesting area of the largest of the three species of boobies – the elegant black and white Nazca booby. They were courting and selecting mates but had not yet laid eggs. Then we walked through a palo santo forest and found more nesting red-footed boobies and great frigates. As we came out to an open, rusty colored lava field, we were delighted to spy several short-eared owls. These raptors are usually active at night but here on Genovesa, in the absence of hawks or other predatory birds, they are active during the day! It was amazing to see them so close, staring at us with their huge yellow eyes. Thousands of wedge-rumped petrels flitted about above the lava and darted into their nests in lava tunnels. The owls were hunting the petrels but we did not see one fall prey to the predators.
Even after a complete week exploring the islands, today we found new species and continued taking pictures like we had only just arrived. Sorting and organizing these countless photos once we get home is a chore ahead of all of us; but the photos will stir our memories of these magical islands and this unforgettable week of making new friends, sharing unique experiences and seeing marvelous sights.
