Fox Creek & Inian Islands
Our day started in the wee hours of the morning with a wake-up call for northern lights. Sleepy bodies resisted the Expedition Leader’s invitation to come to the decks, but it was well worthwhile for those who did manage to climb out of bed. An occasional pillar of light reared skyward from the softer mounds of pale green that glowed in the northeastern sky. The Milky Way stretched overhead across a dazzling array of stars in the blackness.
Shortly after 6 a.m., another unexpected announcement awakened us. This time the report was of humpback whales in the morning sunlight. One spout after another after another lingered over the glassy calm sea. Several youngsters stayed to the side of a group of adults that seemed to be attracted to the schools of herring in this nutrient-rich area. While the mature animals searched for food, one calf managed to get into almost every position possible, from standing on its head to lying upside down with pectoral fins flopping. A sea lion swam with this individual for more than 20 minutes. Meanwhile, the ship’s hydrophone detected wailing feeding calls of the adults. The whales’ explosive exhalations along with a variety of trumpeting and wheezing noises kept our attention. After an incredible experience with these magnificent creatures, the Sea Lion pulled away to allow us to eat breakfast and to move on toward our morning anchorage at Fox Creek.
This site provided a number of options. The low tide exposed a myriad of seashore creatures that awaited discovery. Starfish, hermit crabs, urchins, chitons and anemones were only a few of the fascinating invertebrates that a many of us investigated before heading into the woods. Several hiking groups climbed to mossy muskegs hidden by the dense spruces and hemlocks, and others walked to a waterfall. Bear scratching trees reminded us that we were only visitors here. Once back aboard, another activity lured about a dozen people into a Zodiac. Swimmers careened into the chilly water with wild screams. It was only lunchtime, but the day had already been filled with excitement.
The afternoon held other possibilities. Kayakers slid into the quiet water to skirt the rugged shorelines of the Inian Islands. Zodiac cruisers ranged farther afield to search for Steller sea lions. These curious marine mammals approached our rubber boats for better looks at the unlikely objects in their realm. At times they tagged along with us like fun-loving puppies, or gorged on salmon in the swirling currents. Kittiwakes, glaucous-winged and mew gulls swooped in for scraps as the sea lions feasted. The backdrop for all this behavior could not have been more striking. High above the Brady Glacier towered peaks of the Fairweather Range in all their snow-capped glory. It was another spectacular day in paradise!
