Sitkoh Bay, Lake Eva & Chatham Strait
There are three types of bears you can see in Southeast Alaska: brown bear, black bear, and grumpy bear. This morning only the first was spotted in Sitkoh Bay. While we sipped coffee on the bow, a brown bear sow with two cubs fished for salmon in a small stream at the forest edge of Chicagof Island. These spring cubs were born this last winter and have grown significantly with the help of the nutrient rich salmon and plentiful berries of the temperate rainforest. As the bears completed their breakfast and headed into the woods, we migrated into the dining room for our breakfast.
When we arrived at the Lake Eva trailhead in Hanus Bay, the sun was shining and the extremely low spring tide had exposed flats of intertidal life. Hikers of all ambitions hit the trail maneuvering over logs and through mud marveling all along at the hemlock dominated forest around them. The fall forestscape was dotted with mushrooms, a tasty treat for red squirrels and banana slugs. Upon entering the inner lagoon area, it was unmistakable that we had entered salmon habitat. The pink or humpy salmon spawn by the hundreds in the streams around Lake Eva and their carcasses, in varying degrees of decay, were strewn about. When not hiking, many people explored the near coastal area with sea kayaks; sea stars, blue mussels, and even salmon passed beneath the surface of the water.
Shortly after lunch a group of humpback whales was spotted near Morris Reef. Excitedly we all made our way to the bow. Seven humpback whales were bubble-net feeding, a social feeding method unique to Southeast Alaska. After seeing them surface in unison, lunging with mouths open enveloping thousands of gallons of water and herring, we decided to deploy the hydrophone. The whales dove in succession and the sounds of the underwater world came to life on the bow of the ship. Researchers have found that humpback whales that bubble-net feed have specific duties: one blows the bubbles while the others flash their long, white pectoral flippers to scare the herring into a tighter ball. Occasionally, a member of the feeding group emits a trumpet-like noise thought to either further scare the herring and/or coordinate the feeding group. Today, as we listened to the underwater symphony, we heard one whale melodically trumpeting. Much to our surprise, another whale joined in the trumpeting with a distinct high-pitched voice. We listened in anticipation and were rewarded, time and again, with successful bubble-net feeding.
Later in the evening, we anchored in Freshwater Bay, a stop not included on the day’s initial itinerary. Researchers from the Alaska Whale Foundation and National Geographic Critter Cam division came aboard to give presentations of recent work, enjoy dinner, and answer questions. This afternoon we watched the bubble-net feeding from the surface and listened below the surface; never did we imagine we would see footage taken this week from a camera suction-cupped to a humpback whale. With a dozen researchers on board each specializing in aspects of marine mammal ecology, the sharing of knowledge flowed freely and we all went to bed more enlightened and more appreciative of the wonders we had witnessed today.
There are three types of bears you can see in Southeast Alaska: brown bear, black bear, and grumpy bear. This morning only the first was spotted in Sitkoh Bay. While we sipped coffee on the bow, a brown bear sow with two cubs fished for salmon in a small stream at the forest edge of Chicagof Island. These spring cubs were born this last winter and have grown significantly with the help of the nutrient rich salmon and plentiful berries of the temperate rainforest. As the bears completed their breakfast and headed into the woods, we migrated into the dining room for our breakfast.
When we arrived at the Lake Eva trailhead in Hanus Bay, the sun was shining and the extremely low spring tide had exposed flats of intertidal life. Hikers of all ambitions hit the trail maneuvering over logs and through mud marveling all along at the hemlock dominated forest around them. The fall forestscape was dotted with mushrooms, a tasty treat for red squirrels and banana slugs. Upon entering the inner lagoon area, it was unmistakable that we had entered salmon habitat. The pink or humpy salmon spawn by the hundreds in the streams around Lake Eva and their carcasses, in varying degrees of decay, were strewn about. When not hiking, many people explored the near coastal area with sea kayaks; sea stars, blue mussels, and even salmon passed beneath the surface of the water.
Shortly after lunch a group of humpback whales was spotted near Morris Reef. Excitedly we all made our way to the bow. Seven humpback whales were bubble-net feeding, a social feeding method unique to Southeast Alaska. After seeing them surface in unison, lunging with mouths open enveloping thousands of gallons of water and herring, we decided to deploy the hydrophone. The whales dove in succession and the sounds of the underwater world came to life on the bow of the ship. Researchers have found that humpback whales that bubble-net feed have specific duties: one blows the bubbles while the others flash their long, white pectoral flippers to scare the herring into a tighter ball. Occasionally, a member of the feeding group emits a trumpet-like noise thought to either further scare the herring and/or coordinate the feeding group. Today, as we listened to the underwater symphony, we heard one whale melodically trumpeting. Much to our surprise, another whale joined in the trumpeting with a distinct high-pitched voice. We listened in anticipation and were rewarded, time and again, with successful bubble-net feeding.
Later in the evening, we anchored in Freshwater Bay, a stop not included on the day’s initial itinerary. Researchers from the Alaska Whale Foundation and National Geographic Critter Cam division came aboard to give presentations of recent work, enjoy dinner, and answer questions. This afternoon we watched the bubble-net feeding from the surface and listened below the surface; never did we imagine we would see footage taken this week from a camera suction-cupped to a humpback whale. With a dozen researchers on board each specializing in aspects of marine mammal ecology, the sharing of knowledge flowed freely and we all went to bed more enlightened and more appreciative of the wonders we had witnessed today.
