Inian Islands

Teenagers. It seemed like a roving gang of teenagers. The slightly mischievous ones that start food fights in the cafeteria or fling spitballs during lulls in a lecture. Finding bravery in numbers they swam; snorting, splashing and staring at the unblinking eyes of multiple cameras pointed in their direction. Swimming seems like such an ordinary word for the movements of Steller sea lions in the water. Their movements were more of an aquatic Pilates combined with marine yoga. We experienced similar bodily contortions in our Zodiacs as we balanced, spun and twisted trying to follow these cavorting oceanic spectacles. Were we watching sea lions? Or were sea lions people watching? Yes and yes.

These fin-footed gymnasts were a stark contrast to our earlier viewing of sedate sea otters calmly grooming and stretching this morning in Idaho Inlet. The contrasts in the afternoon were nearly as day and night. We anchored in the protection of Granite Cove on George Island just as a rain squall drenched the landscape. Within ten minutes the sun was shining and we had folks scampering about in Alaskan fashion wearing shorts and rubber boots. From kayaking to hiking to basking in the sun, the afternoon was pleasingly exhausting.

The attitude of a teenager, one possibly in want of a little attention, brought us out on deck just before dinner. Our Captain spotted a lone humpback whale breaching nearby. We watched appreciatively and applauded the whales efforts as it flung its tonnage clear of the water, surrendered to gravity, and landed with a thunderous clap and mini-tsunamic splash. Whether or not we understand these behaviors, the apparent curiosity of sea lions or the want of a humpback to temporarily fly, may not matter right now. These are now indelible parts of our Southeast Alaska experience, incomparable and precious memories that we will build on. Starting again tomorrow morning.