Port Fredrick & Icy Strait Point

Today epitomized the spirit of an expedition, the discovery of unexpected wonders, and the pleasant surprises that can result when unforeseeable mishaps occur. We awoke this morning anchored outside the village of Hoonah, a Tlingit settlement located on the shores of Port Fredrick. Immediately following breakfast, we hastily boarded the Zodiacs hoping to see the bubble-net feeding humpback whales that were in the vicinity. The Chatham feeders did not disappoint us. One member of the group had a unique method of feeding, lunging at the surface exposing a large portion of his body. The weather conditions could not have been better. The flat calm water and mist hanging in the trees set a beautiful backdrop for whale watching. The blows of the whales hung in the air fifteen feet above the water surface, high above our heads. We were so entranced by the humpback whales the approaching orcas went unseen until they were off the bows of the Zodiacs! I literally jumped up and down in excitement. Seeing orcas from a small inflatable boat was an exhilarating experience. As six-foot tall dorsal fins sliced the surface of the water, we marveled at seeing the largest member of the dolphin family, a renowned predator of marine mammals and salmon.

For our afternoon activities, we shifted to cultural exploration at the newly renovated salmon cannery at Icy Strait Point. In disrepair since 1954, the Huna Totem Corporation recently converted the cannery to a cultural destination. Upon arrival, we were ushered into the native theatre for a Tlingit tidal dance and cultural legends performance. The beating of the skin drums and empowered singing of the local Huna natives filled the room. One by one the performers introduced themselves sharing both their language and cultural traditions with us. As the performers reenacted the creation stories of Raven, the trickster, they were transformed into the characters through carved wood masks and elaborate regalia. Keeping with the new custom of sharing their cultural traditions with all people willing to learn, we were all asked to participate in a dance. Moved by the beat of the drums, many of us joined the dance of the love story between the raven and eagle. The Tlingits history has been preserved through stories and songs for thousands of years. Perhaps this provided the inspiration needed for a few of the guests to compose their own song to preserve today’s story. Hoonah, Hoonah! Ohhh, baby! You gotta go!