Passau
We arrived in romantic Passau on Tuesday evening by the light of a silvery moon, berthing at the Dreiflüsseeck, the confluence of the blue Danube, the black Ilz - its waters darkened by tannin from the peat of the Bayerische Wald - and the white Inn, in Spring laden with glacial milk. The town developed on a peninsula, at the heart of which sits the great baroque cathedral of St Stephen that houses the world's largest ecclesiastical organ. Our morning tour featured the Cathedral and also the impressive Bishop's Residence, for Passau was an independent Prince-Bishopric before its incorporation into Bavaria during the Napoleonic Wars. The town is strategically important, as the towering fortress of the Veste Oberhaus clearly suggest, as for centuries grew rich on tolls on the salt trade. Optional morning walk included one to the fortress on the north bank of the Danube and another to the pilgrimage church of Maria Hilfe on the south bank of the Inn: both walks afforded opportunities for superb overviews of the city. It is one with a lively and young population having a famous university, a high reputation for the performing and visual arts, and several excellent breweries. The Glass Museum attracted much interest with its unrivalled collection of Bohemian glass. At midday a large contingent attended the daily organ recital in the cathedral where the music was felt as well as heard.
After lunch on board, we cast our moorings and sailed downstream to the Jochenstein Lock that marks the border between Germany and Austria. During this time we were introduced to the Habsburgs. After the presentation we moved out on deck to experience one of the scenic highlights of the Danube, a gooseneck bend in the river known locally as the Schlögener Schlinge. The experience was much enhanced - and pronunciation of the place greatly facilitated - by the mulled wine served on deck by the attentive bar staff. As the evening faded, we repaired below for Bavarian hors d'oeuvres in the lounge before dinner.
We arrived in romantic Passau on Tuesday evening by the light of a silvery moon, berthing at the Dreiflüsseeck, the confluence of the blue Danube, the black Ilz - its waters darkened by tannin from the peat of the Bayerische Wald - and the white Inn, in Spring laden with glacial milk. The town developed on a peninsula, at the heart of which sits the great baroque cathedral of St Stephen that houses the world's largest ecclesiastical organ. Our morning tour featured the Cathedral and also the impressive Bishop's Residence, for Passau was an independent Prince-Bishopric before its incorporation into Bavaria during the Napoleonic Wars. The town is strategically important, as the towering fortress of the Veste Oberhaus clearly suggest, as for centuries grew rich on tolls on the salt trade. Optional morning walk included one to the fortress on the north bank of the Danube and another to the pilgrimage church of Maria Hilfe on the south bank of the Inn: both walks afforded opportunities for superb overviews of the city. It is one with a lively and young population having a famous university, a high reputation for the performing and visual arts, and several excellent breweries. The Glass Museum attracted much interest with its unrivalled collection of Bohemian glass. At midday a large contingent attended the daily organ recital in the cathedral where the music was felt as well as heard.
After lunch on board, we cast our moorings and sailed downstream to the Jochenstein Lock that marks the border between Germany and Austria. During this time we were introduced to the Habsburgs. After the presentation we moved out on deck to experience one of the scenic highlights of the Danube, a gooseneck bend in the river known locally as the Schlögener Schlinge. The experience was much enhanced - and pronunciation of the place greatly facilitated - by the mulled wine served on deck by the attentive bar staff. As the evening faded, we repaired below for Bavarian hors d'oeuvres in the lounge before dinner.
