Durnstein & Melk
We approached the picturesque village of Dürnstein on a crisp, cool morning with a number of temperature-raising options available: an energetic hike up the local castle ruins or a twenty mile cycle ride through the Wachau valley to Melk. The castle is famous for having housed Richard the Lionheart, held captive here by his purported ally Barbarossa in the 1190s on his way back from the crusades. His whereabouts was discovered, according to legend, by his faithful minstrel Blondel, who heard his master's voice singing a lament from one of the castle's turrets. From the castle ruins there were spectacular views down onto the village, with its famous blue and white church and of the surrounding countryside, with its terraced vineyards and fruit orchards. The Wachau valley, in which Dürnstein is situated, is famous for the grüner veltliner grape variety that makes a distinctive dry white wine and for apricots that are used to make liquors as well as preserves. The shops in the village sell "drunken apricots", apricots steeped in brandy that are sold individually in a glass to passers-by - another temperature-raising option.
The walking tour of the town began outside the mediaeval town walls, still miraculously preserved. After entering through the town gate, we passed the former convent (now a hotel) then moved on to the former Augustinian monastic church that had a terrace affording wonderful views up river. Our walking tour ended as the klosterkeller, where the owner gave us an interesting account of his winery and offered us several different wines to taste.
Departing at midday we enjoyed spectacular sailing, gathering on the sundeck for commentary accompanied by a local specialty prepared by our chef, onion tart washed down with fresh new wine called Sturm, perfect appetizers for the buffet lunch.
The afternoon visit proved a highlight of the tour for many, a chance to visit the famous Melk Abbey. A Benedictine foundation, the monks of the abbey still follow the Rule of benedict, the earliest monastic rule in western Europe. In the abbey we were made acquainted with its main principles: stabilitas loci, the commitment to say in one place; oboedientia, obedience to the abbot; and conversatio morum, the taking to heart of that which is learned, the latter arising out of the threefold duties of Ora et Labora et Lege, Prayer, Work and Study by which the community's diurnal round is organised. As we entered each room we were encouraged to listen: Höre! We saw some of the abbey's treasures: the Melk Cross, priceless religious art, the library - made famous in Umberto Ecco's Name of the Rose - before being treated to an organ recital in the abbey church. After the visit to the interior some opted to tour the gardens where a delightful stand of 250-year old linden trees are a prized feature. There was plenty of time for those who so wished to stroll down through the quiet town and investigate the local shops - pumpkinseed oil was a specialty - or sample local pastries in one of the coffeehouses. More Austrian specialties were on offer at evening dinner that was followed by Viennese coffeehouse desserts served in the lounge.
