Schönbrunn Palace & Beyond
After a full day exploring the sites of downtown Vienna and viewing the exquisite art collection in the Liechtenstein Palais on Friday, Saturday morning was spent at Schönbrunn Palace, the summer residence of the Habsburgs. Arriving at the palace after a 30 minute drive, we were welcomed by the site of a grand structure behind two towering columns with golden lions atop, which framed the wrought iron gates through which we entered the palace grounds. The name Schönbrunn means beautiful fountain and was derived from the ancient water source on the grounds. Behind the castle and leading up the Gloriette, a war memorial on a small hill, are the formal, geometric French gardens, as well as the world’s oldest zoo.
The site of the palace was a swamp 500 years ago, which was later drained to make the building of a mill possible. This mill and the land upon which it stood were later purchased by the Habsburgs. Being avid hunters they built a hunting lodge on these grounds, which was destroyed by the Turkish invaders. Habsburg Archduke Leopold I began construction of the palace after the Ottoman Turkish invaders had been repelled in 1683. Upon Leopold’s death, however, the next ruler, Charles VI, showed no interest in the project. Not until Maria Theresa, the first and only woman archduchess of the Habsburgs, did work on the palace resume. Her architect added a second floor and side wings, giving Schönbrunn the look it has today. Emperor Franz Joseph, the second longest serving monarch in European history (1948-1918), enjoyed Schönbrunn so much that he spent more time there than he did at the Hofburg in the center of Vienna, traditionally the primary residence of the Habsburgs.
Our first event at the castle grounds was a guided tour of the imperial representative rooms of the castle. Breaking into three smaller groups we were able to move through Schönbrunn with a minimum of difficulty, listening to our excellent guides with ease. Afterwards we witnessed a marionette performance of Mozart’s Eine kleine Nachtmusik (A Little Night Serenade) at the Schönbrunn Marionette Theater and had a glimpse backstage. The morning was topped off by a demonstration on making apple strudel at the palace bakery, accompanied by a tasting of warm strudel with some delicious Viennese coffee.
In the afternoon some of our fellow travelers decided to return to the River Cloud, while others used their free time to explore Vienna’s museums and coffee houses. David Barnes led a group to the Lower Belvedere to see an exhibit on Klimt and the Art Show of 1908. Others strolled through the Naschmarkt with its Saturday flea market. Evening performances included concerts, Rossini’s Barber of Seville, and Verdi’s La Traviata at the State Opera, where a female conductor directed an orchestra with only three women instrumentalists.
After a full day exploring the sites of downtown Vienna and viewing the exquisite art collection in the Liechtenstein Palais on Friday, Saturday morning was spent at Schönbrunn Palace, the summer residence of the Habsburgs. Arriving at the palace after a 30 minute drive, we were welcomed by the site of a grand structure behind two towering columns with golden lions atop, which framed the wrought iron gates through which we entered the palace grounds. The name Schönbrunn means beautiful fountain and was derived from the ancient water source on the grounds. Behind the castle and leading up the Gloriette, a war memorial on a small hill, are the formal, geometric French gardens, as well as the world’s oldest zoo.
The site of the palace was a swamp 500 years ago, which was later drained to make the building of a mill possible. This mill and the land upon which it stood were later purchased by the Habsburgs. Being avid hunters they built a hunting lodge on these grounds, which was destroyed by the Turkish invaders. Habsburg Archduke Leopold I began construction of the palace after the Ottoman Turkish invaders had been repelled in 1683. Upon Leopold’s death, however, the next ruler, Charles VI, showed no interest in the project. Not until Maria Theresa, the first and only woman archduchess of the Habsburgs, did work on the palace resume. Her architect added a second floor and side wings, giving Schönbrunn the look it has today. Emperor Franz Joseph, the second longest serving monarch in European history (1948-1918), enjoyed Schönbrunn so much that he spent more time there than he did at the Hofburg in the center of Vienna, traditionally the primary residence of the Habsburgs.
Our first event at the castle grounds was a guided tour of the imperial representative rooms of the castle. Breaking into three smaller groups we were able to move through Schönbrunn with a minimum of difficulty, listening to our excellent guides with ease. Afterwards we witnessed a marionette performance of Mozart’s Eine kleine Nachtmusik (A Little Night Serenade) at the Schönbrunn Marionette Theater and had a glimpse backstage. The morning was topped off by a demonstration on making apple strudel at the palace bakery, accompanied by a tasting of warm strudel with some delicious Viennese coffee.
In the afternoon some of our fellow travelers decided to return to the River Cloud, while others used their free time to explore Vienna’s museums and coffee houses. David Barnes led a group to the Lower Belvedere to see an exhibit on Klimt and the Art Show of 1908. Others strolled through the Naschmarkt with its Saturday flea market. Evening performances included concerts, Rossini’s Barber of Seville, and Verdi’s La Traviata at the State Opera, where a female conductor directed an orchestra with only three women instrumentalists.
