Genovesa Island

Early this morning we anchored inside the eroded and submerged caldera of Darwin Bay, at Genovesa Island. Genovesa (or Tower) is also known as “Bird Island” and is home to over a million sea birds. Long before we disembarked, we enjoyed watching the frigates, gulls, and boobies soaring over head. Shear waters and storm petrels flitted close to the surface of the ocean, and red billed tropic birds circled along the steep cliff face.

Right after a delicious breakfast we took the Zodiacs in for a wet landing on a lovely small, white coral beach where we walked among myriad nesting birds. Dozens of red footed boobies were incubating their single eggs on sloppy twig nests in the sturdy branches of red mangrove bushes and palo santo trees. Some booby chicks have already hatched and we could see their tiny naked bodies tucked below their parents. A few chicks are already large enough to be left alone in the nest. Then both the parents can concentrate on fishing to keep up with the insatiable appetites of the rapidly growing hatchlings.

This is also the breeding season of the great frigates. A few months ago the males were cooing and fluttering at each passing female with their balloon red gular pouches inflated to almost bursting. The frigate colony is quiet now. The pair bonds have been made, courtship is over and most of these large glossy black birds are now incubating eggs or tending their chicks.

Following the walk we had time to swim and relax on the beach. Some went to snorkel along the cliff bases and the highlight for them, without a doubt, was a huge manta ray. An afternoon hike among many more nesting seabirds and good looks at the short-eared owls completed this wonderful day.