Pavlof Harbor/Chatham and Peril Straits
The National Geographic Sea Lion entered Freshwater Bay this morning and anchored in Pavlof Harbor, Chichagof Island. Colorful sea grasses, sea stars, various seaweeds and other organisms were exposed on the rocks and mudflats by the low tide. Our plans for hiking were modified when we spotted three brown bears looking for fish in the salmon stream below the falls. Keeping a respectful distance we were able to watch and photograph the bears, adding more stories to our repertoire of extraordinary experiences of the week. As the bears worked their way downstream, the large group of spectators retreated back toward the landing beach to give the bears as much space as they wanted. Two of the animals had a short argument that was promptly settled. Bears eagerly await the salmon runs, as it is an important time for them to store fat for the long winter ahead. Salmon and bears connect the ocean to the forest in an incredible nutrient cycle.
We planned an afternoon of cruising in Chatham and Peril Straits, packing our rubber boots and rain gear, sorting out photographs and visiting with shipmates. Once more, our intentions were temporarily thwarted when we found a group of about a dozen bubble-net feeding humpback whales in Iyoukeen Cove. These whales exhibit great intelligence by communicating, cooperating and coordinating to concentrate herring into a tight ball and then erupting at the surface in a spectacular jumble of body parts, with mouths open and full of fish. One of these episodes exploded directly under the bow of the vessel! The whales use a cylindrical curtain of bubbles as well as loud sounds and flashes from their white pectoral flippers as tools to corral the prey. A young calf accompanied the group, following its mother and attempting to attract attention by breaching, throwing its tail and various other antics, which elicited great bursts of delighted appreciation from the audience on board.
Finally, we continued on our way into Peril Strait toward Sitka, full of memories of an expedition that will be cherished for a long, long time.
