Inian Islands & Fox Creek
What a day! – exhilarating, to say the least! We began the morning cruising through the fog-enveloped Inian Islands. Due to the dramatic rise and fall of the tides and the underwater topography of this small island archipelago, nutrients and bottom dwelling fish involuntarily stream up to the surface. This draws all kinds of hungry marine mammals and birds.
Adult male Steller’s sea lions feasted on helpless creatures swirling around in whirlpools and bobbling through confused water. Here and there in the strong currents, the massive heads of these impressive marine mammals intermittently shot up through the surface. Many had fish clasped between their teeth. In order to break the fish up into chunks small enough to digest, they ripped them in half with one swing of their powerful necks. Swooping down from above, flocks of blacklegged kittiwakes and glaucous-winged gulls partook in this feeding frenzy as well. These voracious gulls fought over bits and pieces of fish left behind by the sea lions.
Also taking advantage of this plentitude of fish, a number of pelagic seabirds take up summer residence on the sheer rock faces of the ocean-exposed islands. Tufted puffins and pigeon guillemots dropped down from high ledges and landed on the water just in front of our Zodiacs. The water below is an environment in which they are much better suited. For in this submarine world, they stream down through the water in pursuit of small fish with as much ease as any other streamlined underwater swimmer. Above the water, however, they struggle to take flight. As we drew near, they clumsily skipped across the surface and with short whirling wing beats and outstretched feet; they finally took to the air.
Inland, both species of otter found refuge in the kelp beds. Sea otters, easily mistaken for the ball-like floats of bull kelp floated peacefully on their backs. Many were pairs-- mothers with young ones resting on their bellies. Others slept peacefully wrapped in the long blades of seaweed. The other species of otter, the river otter, also made use of these inland coves. First, one individual emerged from the water, then another and another and still more! An entire family of river otters made its way up the slippery rocks and into the forest.
As the day progressed, the fog seemed to play with us by swirling up to higher elevations and then down again obscuring much of the coastline. Fortunately, we headed inland-- into the forest and beyond. Immediately, we felt the presence of bears. The trails on which we walked are those more commonly used by these mystical rainforest denizens. We also encountered trees on which they scratched and rubbed themselves leaving behind tufts of hair encrusted in hardened sap.
Others trudged up the mountainsides, through thick mud until reaching the famed muskeg or Alaskan bog. This more open and field-like environment dotted with short bonsai-like trees and perfectly round ponds seemed more like a Japanese garden than southeast Alaskan wilderness. However, we realized just how wild and untouched this landscape is in stepping off the trail and consequently having to bushwhack.
Today was a day full of surprises. Thinking we would be returning to our cabins for the night, the after dinner show of breaching killer whales ensured that not one moment of this voyage can be taken for granted!
