Sitkoh Bay, Chichagof Island & Peril Strait
Sunny skies and bow-riding Dall’s porpoise greeted the early birds on the bow this morning. Those who arose more leisurely watched a coastal brown bear eating its morning sedges on the shoreline of Sitkoh Bay, just across the water from the ruins of a large cannery. Two more big brown bears were spotted way down in the beautiful meadow at the head of the inlet. A nearby creek that leads to a lake still supports a strong run of sockeye salmon…it’s no wonder this place has so many bears!
From 1906 until 1963 Sitkoh Bay’s cannery hosted a Post Office and early in the last century it was a settlement of about 500 people called Chatham. Craven Point, at the end of the bay, was a Tlingit village for 17 years. In 1804, Chief Katlian and his people retreated across Baranof Island after a fierce battle with the Russians, and temporarily settled here. They quickly set up a blockade of the fur-laden canoes bound for Sitka and convinced the Aleut trappers to sell their furs to the Americans. Every year Alexander Baranof sent an envoy entreating them to return to their homeland. Eventually they did, under their own terms.
This stunning day drew us ashore for kayaking in the calm water and hiking in both old-growth forest and along an old logging road overhung with mature red alder trees. Yellow violets lined the road and bear tracks and sign were evident. Three eagle’s nests as well as a dozen or more eagles were spotted on the Zodiac cruise – one had an adult sitting in it.
The afternoon brought us through the narrow passages of Peril Strait, through Sergius Narrows on a strong ebb tide with the buoys straining at their anchors; down through Neva Strait, Olga Strait and on out to St. Lazaria- an island wildlife refuge for nesting seabirds. We rarely visit St. Lazaria as it is out in the Pacific Ocean about fifteen miles from Sitka. The great sea is flat calm tonight and this is a rare treat indeed.
Our week together has been sunny and filled with the joy of traveling to wild places and sharing adventures with new and old friends. We wish you well on your journey.
