Los Islotes and Ensenada Grande, Espiritu Santo National Park

Magic.

No wind and calm seas. Another perfect day in Baja California.

The day begins with a sunrise Zodiac cruise at Los Islotes, rock spires rising abruptly from the sea. Sunrise paints the volcanic ash layers in the golden light of dawn as the cries of California sea lions echo off the cliffs. From water level we spy pelicans, blue-footed boobies, great blue herons, and double-crested cormorants perched on the rocks and soaring overhead. At one point, bottlenose dolphins ride the bow of the Zodiacs.

After breakfast we take to the water to swim with the sea lions. The playful pups swim circles around us—a humbling experience and a thrill of a lifetime.

During lunch the National Geographic Sea Bird repositions to Ensenada Grande, a sculpted bay carved from the tilted rock layers of Isla Partida. Here we explore by kayak, while adventurous souls take the long hike to the other side of the island. It’s a timeless afternoon capped off with a green flash and a lavish barbeque dinner on shore, complete with a campfire and marshmallows.

As Jupiter and Venus set over the Baja Peninsula, we linger on shore and are treated to tales of the Aztec Gods, a star talk, and music by a crew member who spent time in the music scene in Nashville.

Truly magic.