Ideal Cove and Petersburg

The National Geographic Sea Bird sailed through absolutely calm seas on her approach to her anchorage. We were in the southern extremity of Frederick Sound, just north of the outwash and sediments of the Stikine River, a place called Ideal Cove, Mitkof Island. The deposits have blocked further passage south, leaving us practically alone; no other boat traffic, just large ice bergs from LeConte Glacier accompanied us, drifting slowly on the far side of the sound, glowing dimly in the morning light.

When I saw the clear skies, I cheered inside. Six-thirty in the morning and it was already 62 degrees. It would be a “scorcher” by Southeast Alaska standards. Shorts! Short-sleeved T-shirts!

I followed the aerobic walkers on the five-mile (or so) loop trail on the “plankwalk”. We kept up a vigorous pace up the steps and soon came through the cool forest out into open meadowlands surrounding Hill Lake. Brief stop, breath back, keep going, along the dirt road a ways, along Crane Lake, and back down.

Meanwhile others had taken their time on this same trail, pausing frequently to listen, ask questions and take photographs of the beating heart of this temperate rainforest in Southeast Alaska.

Once all were back on board, away we sailed north, to Petersburg. We pulled in after lunch and immediately some flightseers left to catch their floatplane ride over the LeConte glacier. More hikes took place out in the Tongass National Forest over at Petersburg Creek across the Wrangell Narrows; others visited the town by foot and bicycle. The sun shone and people smiled. The inhabitants of Petersburg wore shorts and tank-tops with flip-flops…THIS was Southeast Alaska? Yes. At least for today.

To top it off, special guests were in town and invited on board to chat with our guests about the latest in conservation in the region (Keil Renick from SEACC – Southeast Alaska Conservation Council) and Dr. Fred Sharpe, too. The Alaska Whale Foundation specializes in research on the humpback whales of Southeast Alaska, those same animals we so fervently hope to find in the coming days.

A slow sun set over the mountains of Kupreanof Island as we set course north up Frederick Sound. Tomorrow new sights and sounds await us.