Española Island
It was a wonderful way to start the week. Despite the stress of the previous day’s travel and to-be-expected tiredness, a full night’s sleep was enough for an intrepid group of kayakers to wake up and leave with me at 6:15 in the morning. We paddled quietly with the current along the cliffs just west of Gardner Bay; a sea lion slept in a nook above the high tide line; a marine turtle head popped out for breath; a leaping yellow-tailed mullet splashed nearby; Nazca boobies shared a rock with blue-footed boobies.
Later in the morning, after briefing and outfitting, snorkelers left for both deep-water and the beach for lessons. Bleating, snoring sea lions lay haphazardly along the shoreline; bright, bright light reflected off white sand (parrotfish poop); azure water cooled and refreshed swimmers and snorkelers alike. I consider the outing a success…I’ve converted more people to the joys of snorkeling!
The afternoon took us to the westernmost point of the island of Española, Pta. Suarez. Here Nazca boobies are at the height of their breeding season, eggs and chicks and activity, squawking and whistling, flights in and out of sites. Blue-footed boobies were hanging around, waiting for a change in food supply before courting.
A Galápagos hawk perched regally on the National Park monument, seemingly unaware that inches from its imposing talons, a marine iguana was with equal confidence gazing out over its domain. The only dissenter was an Española mockingbird who, following the philosophy of “better the devil you know than the devil you don’t know,” made alarm calls while hopping from bush to twig to branch around the hawk.
As usual, the sea lions captured the limelight. A gang of teenagers tore through the shallows creating havoc. A half-hour later they were found snoozing in the tidal pool, collapsed with exhaustion from play.
What a remarkable start to a week of adventure.
