Uplifted
As we pull into the small bay here at Urbina on Isabela, we notice a rough coastal area and a very small, steep beach where we will eventually land. This appears to be a normal coastal area here in Galápagos—normal being a relative term, as there was a recent geologic action that changed how this coast originally appeared. In 1954 a couple of square kilometers of this coast was uplifted more then three meters over a period of two weeks prior to a volcanic eruption on Alecedo volcano. This uplift trapped crustaceans, fish, and large coral heads inland leaving them high and dry. We walked on this strange landscape and we’re able to use our imagination to picture how productive this area was prior to the uplift. Land iguanas greeted us as we cut inland, and we noticed that all of the vegetation was coastal, salt resistant flora that came after this boost up from the seafloor. Arriving to a dusty, flat plain we realize that this was a massive mangrove inlet previously and the large mangroves are still slowly degrading. As we return to the landing beach, we find an assortment of giant tortoises from the Alcedo population. Maybe we should not anthropomorphize these creatures but it appears that they have a surprised look on their faces as if they walk over an area that was not here before the 50’s—just possibly they saw this uplift when it happened.
Navigation continues along the coast of southern Isabela and brings us to Moreno Point, which is a basalt lava flow that separates the volcano’s Azul and Negra. This Pahoe-hoe flow has surprises in store for us as we start our afternoon excursions. Landing on something that is so desolate gives us second thoughts about this hike, however it also strangely compels us. Upon closer inspection, this lava field comes alive with candelabra cacti, Darwin daisies, Scalesia plants, and various other pioneer species. Sounds in the distance make us curious to what could be making them, and how could they be living here. A few meters further along the path brings us to large depressions that were made during the last flow of basalt. Inside of these depressions, we are astounded to find an oasis of life surrounding small ponds. The contrast of bright green from the grasses and Galápagos papyrus with the midnight black basalt is dramatic. We eventually encounter the animals that were making the noise—common gallinules and intensely colored flamingos. Life continues and survives in an area that was practically created yesterday. As we ponder these mysteries we return to our floating home, the National Geographic Islander and we share a collective sigh for we all feel uplifted.
