Fair Isle & Mousa, Shetland

Continuing the theme that runs through this voyage of visiting remote islands, this morning we stopped at Fair Isle. This lump of rock, approximately 3 miles by 1.5 miles lies midway between the Orkney Islands and Shetland.

One of the significant differences between this island and some of the others we have visited is that Fair Isle is still inhabited. It is home to a population of about 70 people, making a living from small scale farming and a tourism industry that is largely based on the famous birdlife of the island. This year they will be opening the new £4 million bird observatory. There is also a small but equally well known local industry producing high quality and distinctive knitwear.

After working hard to find an anchorage with sufficient shelter from the strong northerly wind we ventured ashore to meet the locals – both the human and the feathered variety. Those who ventured out to the cliffs found a variety of nesting seabirds including Atlantic puffins, while onshore the community centre provided welcome hospitality and a refreshing cup of tea away from the bracing wind. The north wind brought with it some short-lived flurries of snow and hail. Migrant birds recently arrived from sub-Saharan Africa, such as northern wheatears, must have wondered if they had taken a wrong turn somewhere.

The afternoon continued to be a mixture of sunshine and squalls but did not stop us from making our way ashore on Mousa to visit the broch which dates back to 100 BC. Here we were also not far from some of the wildlife supported by the rich waters around these islands and we found grey seals in the lagoons and nesting shags on the cliffs. By evening we were alongside a dock in Lerwick – the main town of Shetland, ready for our excursion to explore mainland Shetland tomorrow.