In the Pack Ice of Svalbard
An excited hush fell over the bridge as the call was heard. There’s a bear! National Geographic Explorer had been picking her way through the pack ice around eighty degrees North all night and into the morning. Many staff and guests had been up all night looking through binoculars and spotting scopes hoping to find the first polar bear on the ice. Finally, in the mid-morning that creamy white dot was spotted amongst the jagged edges of pack ice on the horizon. The ship slowed and began the slow creep in order to maneuver closer to the polar bear. It was sleeping. Lying on the ice on its belly. Feet sprawled out behind.
Closer and closer we came. Suddenly the bear perked up and sat up. Then it stood up. Almost immediately it began sniffing the air and walking closer to us. Crowds quickly formed on all the outdoor levels of the bow of the ship. Cameras clicked away and whispers were heard. Everyone was very excited for this experience. It had even started snowing. Hardly pausing, the bear came closer and closer changing direction to have a path over the ice floes to get nearer. Before long the young bear was directly under the bow of the ship. It sniffed the air and seemed to look at every face staring back at it from above. It was very curious and continued circling around the bow for a time. People were starting to get chilly standing outside in the arctic air and maybe a little hungry too.
Just then, Gaylord, our head waiter, circled around the bow holding a sign. Normally, we hear the voice of Gaylord informing us that the next meal is being served. He always tells us to enjoy and bon appétit. But, a problem arises when we are watching a bear up close, we must all be as silent as possible and no announcements are made outside the ship. There would be little sympathy for the person who scared away a polar bear with a loud noise. So, here was Gaylord walking around the bow holding a sign that read “Lunch is being served. Bon Appétit!” What an ingenious solution to informing everyone of a meal on a silent ship. Many got the message and decided it was time to head inside to warm up and fill their stomachs. Many also chose to stay out on the decks and watch the bear to the last moment.
Not too long after lunch another bear was sighted – this one a very large and healthy looking polar bear. Again it was sleeping on the ice and again it decided to get up to check us out more closely. This bear, however, perhaps a little older and wiser than the younger bear of the morning, decided that getting involved with something so large and unknown to him might not be a good idea. So, when only a hundred yards from the ship, he decided to turn and walk the other way. Oh well, but it was a beautiful look anyway.
Other bears were spotted, but none behaved the way the first polar bear of the day did. An up close experience with an ice bear is what every traveler to the Arctic craves. It does not always happen, but when it does it is something that is beyond special. To see such a majestic animal up close and personal really makes one wonder at nature and the wild places of the globe. That this large and thoughtful animal can survive a lifetime up here with nothing but white ice floes on its horizon never ceases to amaze me. No wonder that some young, curious, and sometimes inexperienced ones can, on a special occasion, approach the big blue ship that suddenly appears on its otherwise grey and white horizon.
