Edgeoya & Isbjornodden
The thinnest veil of fog shrouded the shoreline of the south end of Edgeøya as we approached Russehamna, our planned landing site this morning. Sunshine and a light breeze did its best to lift the mist from this enticing landscape while we were having breakfast. From the bridge of the ship, pink-footed geese and a red-throated diver were seen on a small lake close to the shore. The fog rolled back, obscuring our view of the landing site and determined a change of plan.
During the latter part of the morning the ship made its way north along the west coast of Edgeøya and part way through the sound of Freemansundet which separates the islands of Edgeøya and Barentsøya. Rich Kirchner one of the expedition’s photographers presented a clear and easy to follow explanation on how to obtain the best from your digital camera. Harold Stowell, our eminent geologist, presented an interesting and informative introduction to the geology of Svalbard.
After lunch we found clear skys and sunshine at a place called Isbjornodden on the south shore of Freemansundet. Most of the guests went ashore with the expedition staff to experience the pleasure of walking on the wide open tundra that stretched before us. Small groups of sturdy reindeer were encountered grazing on the sparsely vegetated landscape. Some were brandishing enormous antlers, still wrapped in lush velvet. Although it is only the beginning of August many of the tundra flowers had already started to fade and their leaves were turning from green to the rich yellows and reds of autumn colours. Little shore birds called purple sand pipers scampered along the shore in search of a few last meals before they leave on their migration to warmer lands to the south. After a couple of hours ashore and with many of the walking groups still some distance from our landing site, a polar bear was spotted heading towards us from the east, along the shore. Fortunately it stopped after a few loud cracker flares had been fired ahead of it and all the people on shore returned safely to the ship. Back on board, we retraced our passage to the west through Freemansundet
At evening recap our Underwater Specialist David treated us to a view into the depths around us. From our video microscope images were projected images of the tiny organisms that proliferate in the cold waters of the Arctic Ocean and feed the ecosystem. Surprisingly they provide the sustenance for the vast numbers of seabirds that we have encountered on our journey round Svalbard. Carol Knott, our historian, told us of one of Svalbard’s most remarkable survival stories that took place on the island of Edgeøya. There four men survived for six years back in the 1700’s with virtually no provisions or supplies.
After dinner we were out in the Zodiacs again. This time to visit the walrus haul out at a place called Kapp Lee, at the northwestern corner of Edgeøya. Thirty or more of these enormous, blubbery, creatures were seen piled together on the beach, while more animals frolicked at the water’s edge. Male walrus, which all these animals were, weigh as much as 1,500kg and eat in the region of 70kg of clams and sea mussels in a single feeding session. They find their food in the mud at the bottom of the sea by feeling for the shells with the whiskers around their nose and then suck the meat out from the shell.
