Lower Savage Islands, Nunavut, Canada

“Stop! Turnaround! They are right behind you!” a voice calls out over the radio. As I look at the Zodiacs ahead of me, I see large black dorsal fins coming out of the water between them.

We catch up to the other boats, and I decide to cut the engine and wait. Maybe the orcas will come and visit us too. Within moments, an adult female breaks the surface right off our bow, and we can hear the sharp intake of her breath. Over to the left, there are two young whales with their mothers, and they are lifting their backs right out of the water. There are orcas everywhere – turning, diving and blowing between our small boats. Above water I hear shutters clicking and muffled squeals of excitement as we try to stay quiet and watch. After another moment, another female surfaces before us; then she dives, and we watch her swim by just under our feet. Right away there are two more whales under the surface, and we can see their white markings – turned turquoise by the arctic sea.

Another voice on the radio, this time from a fellow zodiac driver: “Tim, are you getting this? We are ecstatic!” I look up at the ship and see more guests and crew looking down from the outside decks, waving and taking pictures.

Orcas swimming right in amongst us was unforgettable, and today was already a once in a lifetime experience before the whales even showed their beautiful faces.

By the time the orcas arrived, we were heading back to the ship after almost five hours exploring the Lower Savage Islands off the south-eastern tip of Baffin Island. The afternoon began with three polar bear sightings, then the wind dropped, the sun shone and we wound through a stunning rock landscape watching black guillemots and surfing tidal rapids. It was only after I was completely satisfied with our beautiful afternoon that we received the greatest gift of all. Isn’t that always the way? It is when you stop asking that the magic really begins.

Since we arrived in Canada two weeks ago, we have had the privilege of traveling with a very knowledgeable, experienced and generous Inuit guide named Stevie Aulaqiaq. He has told us about seals and narwhal, found us polar bears, shared stories about his sled dogs and hunting trips. Born and raised on Baffin Island, it seems that Stevie knows everything about the arctic, but until today the arctic had never shown him a killer whale. Today was more special for each of us because it gifted a new experience to our friend with the most experience of all.