Sea Lion Island & Bleaker Island, The Falklands
Imagine a long white sandy beach with a gently rolling surf. Now add a few shorebirds bobbing along the water’s edge. Maybe bring some watercolors and do a little painting. Doesn’t that sound like a great way to spend a morning? Let’s include a colorful drink in a tall glass with a tiny umbrella and the scene is set. But that’s not quite what happened, and good thing too, because our day was much more exhilarating. Today reminded us that we’re not on a mere vacation, but an expedition. Let’s start over. Remember the rolling surf that looked so mild from the National Geographic Endeavour? By the time those swells reached the beach, we had breaking waves that made the landings an “E” ticket ride. And those sweet little sandpipers, they were there all right, but surrounded by tons and tons of southern elephant seals. The large bulls (we’re talking two tons each) were defending their harems of females who in turn cared for their young. While we saw sweet moments of mother elephant seals suckling their two-week-old offspring, we also detected a hint of the life and death struggle that dominates nature in the wild. A few of the seal pups had already succumbed to the elements, and a few of large bulls sported nasty wounds earned in battle. There was so much to see and do, we hardly knew where to start. Many of us were drawn to the mirror-calm waters behind the beach to photograph colorful birds with perfect reflections. Some shipmates gravitated to the gentoo colony. These tall brushtail penguins were busy with many tasks: adding to their nests, incubating eggs, and commuting from the sea. That’s when the squall hit. Pelted by sideways hail we quickly hid our camera gear, pulled up our hoods, and shouldered into the wind en route to the Sea Lion Lodge for some promised tea at 10:00 a.m. And while we headed for shelter, the tiny sandpipers huddled together in small groups beneath large leaves of sea cabbage, waiting for the storm to pass. No tea for them. But ours never tasted so good, and the cookies were icing on the cake. Come to think of it, the cookies actually had icing.
The afternoon brought a landing at Bleaker Island, which at first looked…well, a little bleak. But the mile-long hike proved otherwise. Plovers, geese, sheep, oystercatchers, vultures, skuas, and ducks were plentiful en route, but the far beach was literally teeming with life. The blue-eyed shags were all decked out in their breeding finery and the rock-hopper penguins were great with their courtship displays, greeting ceremonies, and nest building. It was a grand display of life. Although we had hours to walk the beaches and marvel at the birds, soon it was time to go. We didn’t mind. It had been a lovely two days at the Falklands.
Now it’s on to South Georgia. I guess if there were any lessons to be learned from today, it’s this: first impressions aren’t always right and no day will be ordinary when you’re on an expedition. Expect the extraordinary!
Imagine a long white sandy beach with a gently rolling surf. Now add a few shorebirds bobbing along the water’s edge. Maybe bring some watercolors and do a little painting. Doesn’t that sound like a great way to spend a morning? Let’s include a colorful drink in a tall glass with a tiny umbrella and the scene is set. But that’s not quite what happened, and good thing too, because our day was much more exhilarating. Today reminded us that we’re not on a mere vacation, but an expedition. Let’s start over. Remember the rolling surf that looked so mild from the National Geographic Endeavour? By the time those swells reached the beach, we had breaking waves that made the landings an “E” ticket ride. And those sweet little sandpipers, they were there all right, but surrounded by tons and tons of southern elephant seals. The large bulls (we’re talking two tons each) were defending their harems of females who in turn cared for their young. While we saw sweet moments of mother elephant seals suckling their two-week-old offspring, we also detected a hint of the life and death struggle that dominates nature in the wild. A few of the seal pups had already succumbed to the elements, and a few of large bulls sported nasty wounds earned in battle. There was so much to see and do, we hardly knew where to start. Many of us were drawn to the mirror-calm waters behind the beach to photograph colorful birds with perfect reflections. Some shipmates gravitated to the gentoo colony. These tall brushtail penguins were busy with many tasks: adding to their nests, incubating eggs, and commuting from the sea. That’s when the squall hit. Pelted by sideways hail we quickly hid our camera gear, pulled up our hoods, and shouldered into the wind en route to the Sea Lion Lodge for some promised tea at 10:00 a.m. And while we headed for shelter, the tiny sandpipers huddled together in small groups beneath large leaves of sea cabbage, waiting for the storm to pass. No tea for them. But ours never tasted so good, and the cookies were icing on the cake. Come to think of it, the cookies actually had icing.
The afternoon brought a landing at Bleaker Island, which at first looked…well, a little bleak. But the mile-long hike proved otherwise. Plovers, geese, sheep, oystercatchers, vultures, skuas, and ducks were plentiful en route, but the far beach was literally teeming with life. The blue-eyed shags were all decked out in their breeding finery and the rock-hopper penguins were great with their courtship displays, greeting ceremonies, and nest building. It was a grand display of life. Although we had hours to walk the beaches and marvel at the birds, soon it was time to go. We didn’t mind. It had been a lovely two days at the Falklands.
Now it’s on to South Georgia. I guess if there were any lessons to be learned from today, it’s this: first impressions aren’t always right and no day will be ordinary when you’re on an expedition. Expect the extraordinary!
