Stockholm, Sweden

Sunshine! A brilliant day! Today we, together with the Swedes, welcomed the sun as we made our way early to the Vasa museum, the home of the best preserved 3 masted European warship to have ever been salvaged and preserved. On August 10th 1628, the richly ornamented Vasa, a 64 gun, 5 deck warship sailed triumphantly out of the Stockholm shipyard on its maiden voyage before a huge expectant crowd gathered on the shores. It did not get far. Just out in the bay, much to the astonishment of the viewing public, the ship careened to one side and slowly sank into the sea. The disaster was attributed to a design flaw introduced by the King of Sweden who could be refused nothing. On his orders, additional guns and sculptures were added to the top decks, making the ship top heavy and unseaworthy.

In the 1950’s this magnificent vessel was rediscovered, raised and preserved by means of new technology, and placed in the museum which was built around it. Surprisingly, as one approaches the ship, one feels a palpable presence, something that no picture can capture. It is almost as though it is a living thing and its oak is still rooted in the soil.

In the afternoon we had many choices of activities. One group went to explore the fascinating open air Skansen Museum where period Swedish buildings are displayed and costumed workers clean and spin flax, and exhibit various indigenous crafts.

A walking tour of Gamla Stan, the old city was a special treat and a surprise. A warren of neat narrow cobbled streets lined with colorful 16th and 17th century houses, the whole town lies on a small defensible island. The main Cathedral and the Royal Palace stand on the highest point and it is interesting to note the absence of landscaping or greenery anywhere in this area. The streets are slightly convex with drains along the sides to take way rainwater and prevent flooding.

As we approached the main town square we heard the unlikely sound of the deep intoxicating rhythms of African drums reverberating in the air. There, in the middle of the square, against the backdrop of 16th century Flemish buildings, a group of Africans in bright robes and satin costumes sang and danced with great energy and exotic grace. They said they were all from Senegal and although they spoke perfect if slightly accented English, they sang in a language of Africa. The local Swedes watched with interest but no one seemed at all surprised by the performance.