Spitsbergen

The day began with a 7 am wake up call in the fog enshrouded southern entrance to Storfjorden off the southeast coast of Spitsbergen. Wind and fog prevented us from our intended activities in Isbukta, so the National Geographic Endeavour continued south toward Sorkapp in a rolling sea. At 9 am, Magnus Forsberg treated us to an account of Svalbard history, including exploration by the Dutchman Willem Barentsz in 1596, exploitation of marine mammals by Dutch and English seaman, hunting of walrus and bears by Russians (pomors) and Norwegians, and utilization as a starting point for 20th century expeditions to the north pole.

During the morning, the National Geographic Endeavour turned north along the west coast of Spitsbergen. At 11 am, an interested group gathered in the lounge to discuss global climate change. A lively and useful discussion lasted until a fine lunch was served at noon. The fog lifted and we caught glimpses of the sharp peaks of western Spitsbergen as we continued northward. Shortly after lunch, the National Geographic Endeavour entered Hornsund Fjord on the southwest end of Spitsbergen. The ship ploughed forward into whitecaps and spray driven by a 35 knot wind as we turned east up the fjord. The National Geographic Endeavour stopped in front of the massive cliff of Gnålberget and the staff carefully examined the beach for polar bears. After finding a safe landing site, we braved a stiff wind and whitecaps to go ashore beneath the towering cliffs of circa 500 million year old (Cambrian) carbonate rocks.

Onshore, we hiked along the steep cobble beach to examine coarse calcite in planar veins that indicate the ancient fractures which allowed hot water to flow through the earth, a pomor cabin site and grave, and a more recent and still usable trapper cabin. The beach was greatly enhanced by nesting guillemots, numerous glaucous gulls, and barnacle geese. After hiking, some of us braved the frigid water for a quick dip! The National Geographic Endeavour turned north into Burger bukta for a late afternoon exploration in front of the glacier. The sun broke through the clouds as we departed the Burger bukta and turned west into Hornsund. The west Spitsbergen mountains were bathed in sunlight during our dinner and westward passage out of Hornsund and northward along the west coast of Spitsbergen.