Ice, Ice, and More Ice
Having rounded the Southern cape of the island of Spitzbergen during the night, the Endeavour now glides through ice and water on the eastern side of the island. Our Ice Master, Captain Leif Skog looks a bit like a kid in a candy store this morning, maneuvering the Endeavour through first and multi year pack ice, finding what seem like impossible leads, endlessly searching for the animals we have all come to see. This ice is the key to discovering wildlife, as this is where polar bears come to hunt during the summer months, searching the ice for their staple diet of ringed seals.
As we transit through the ice floes, we are surrounded by flocks of fulmars and glaucaous gulls, enticed by the small pelagic animals that are forced to the surface as the Endeavour churns through the ice. Diving merrily behind the ship, it is a feast for all. We are also passed by flocks of Dovekies flying in tight formation, and black guillemots that paddle lazily on the surface, barely glancing at the ship as it steams by.
All eyes are out, enjoying the virtually windless morning and sunny skies, searching, searching…
Sighting life on a vast stretch of sea and fast ice is a bit like finding a needle in a hay stack. It is funny how dirty pieces of ice seem to shape themselves into seals, and the yellow tinged hummocks of ice replicate the polar bear. It is a game of patience and persistence.
However, the announcement of a morning lecture was enough to guarantee interruption, and indubitably a polar bear was sighted. All moved quietly out on deck to gawk at this King of the North, the Ice Bear. Several sightings followed this first of the morning, some closer than others, but all equally impressive, as these enormous bears seemed to move effortlessly across a landscape of irregular pressure ridges and thin ice floes. It was right before lunch when we had our closest encounter of the day, a mother and her cub. Still a good distance from the ship, Captain Skog nudged the Endeavour against the fast ice, holding the ship steady. We waited patiently…
The two bears moved casually across the ice at first, paying no notice to the 110 guests gathered out on deck. Initially it seemed childhood inquisitiveness took over, as the young cub moved away from Mom, heading towards the ship. Mother, realizing her baby was fleeing the nest, quickly caught up, and gave what looked like a strict reprimand. But perhaps the youngster gave a strong plea for having adventuresome new experiences, or perhaps they caught a whiff of the scrumptious meal the galley was preparing for lunch, in either case both bears journeyed toward the ship. Strolling effortlessly and silently, the only sounds were the low grumblings from the cub, a kind of “baby talk.” The two approached the ship cautiously, but with great interest, circling both sides. Eventually satisfied that Endeavour was not a giant seal, and did not offer any immediate gain, the two bears moved away across the ice.
As the guests made their way back inside the ship, all were a buzz with excitement and awe. Seeing one of the most untamed animals in the world, prevailing in their natural habitat, is one of the greatest experiences on earth, and shall not be soon forgotten by anyone onboard Endeavour.
Having rounded the Southern cape of the island of Spitzbergen during the night, the Endeavour now glides through ice and water on the eastern side of the island. Our Ice Master, Captain Leif Skog looks a bit like a kid in a candy store this morning, maneuvering the Endeavour through first and multi year pack ice, finding what seem like impossible leads, endlessly searching for the animals we have all come to see. This ice is the key to discovering wildlife, as this is where polar bears come to hunt during the summer months, searching the ice for their staple diet of ringed seals.
As we transit through the ice floes, we are surrounded by flocks of fulmars and glaucaous gulls, enticed by the small pelagic animals that are forced to the surface as the Endeavour churns through the ice. Diving merrily behind the ship, it is a feast for all. We are also passed by flocks of Dovekies flying in tight formation, and black guillemots that paddle lazily on the surface, barely glancing at the ship as it steams by.
All eyes are out, enjoying the virtually windless morning and sunny skies, searching, searching…
Sighting life on a vast stretch of sea and fast ice is a bit like finding a needle in a hay stack. It is funny how dirty pieces of ice seem to shape themselves into seals, and the yellow tinged hummocks of ice replicate the polar bear. It is a game of patience and persistence.
However, the announcement of a morning lecture was enough to guarantee interruption, and indubitably a polar bear was sighted. All moved quietly out on deck to gawk at this King of the North, the Ice Bear. Several sightings followed this first of the morning, some closer than others, but all equally impressive, as these enormous bears seemed to move effortlessly across a landscape of irregular pressure ridges and thin ice floes. It was right before lunch when we had our closest encounter of the day, a mother and her cub. Still a good distance from the ship, Captain Skog nudged the Endeavour against the fast ice, holding the ship steady. We waited patiently…
The two bears moved casually across the ice at first, paying no notice to the 110 guests gathered out on deck. Initially it seemed childhood inquisitiveness took over, as the young cub moved away from Mom, heading towards the ship. Mother, realizing her baby was fleeing the nest, quickly caught up, and gave what looked like a strict reprimand. But perhaps the youngster gave a strong plea for having adventuresome new experiences, or perhaps they caught a whiff of the scrumptious meal the galley was preparing for lunch, in either case both bears journeyed toward the ship. Strolling effortlessly and silently, the only sounds were the low grumblings from the cub, a kind of “baby talk.” The two approached the ship cautiously, but with great interest, circling both sides. Eventually satisfied that Endeavour was not a giant seal, and did not offer any immediate gain, the two bears moved away across the ice.
As the guests made their way back inside the ship, all were a buzz with excitement and awe. Seeing one of the most untamed animals in the world, prevailing in their natural habitat, is one of the greatest experiences on earth, and shall not be soon forgotten by anyone onboard Endeavour.
