This morning we sailed to one of the most remote and unspoiled islands of the Cyclades: Folegandros. It is situated at the southeastern part of this island group and it is a very special place to visit, even though it does not share the fame of nearby islands like Santorini.
Folegandros means hard, iron-like stone, a name given to it because it is a dry, barren and rocky, mountainous island! Upon arrival by sea one sees the three large rocks—one succeeding the other—on the top of which is a church dedicated to Virgin Mary Kardiani, of the heart.
We drove up the winding, rocky road to reach the Chora, the old and only capital village of the island. In the past the islanders would not build the town by the coast as the fear of pirates was great. They needed protection, not to be seen, hence the town was hidden well above the sea.
As we reached the town and we looked down at the rocky drops to the blue of the sea, it was stunning. Some of us went on a hike up a very steep path that led to a church built at a very high point, dedicated to the Virgin Mary again. It is said that this church was built upon the remains of an ancient temple dedicated to Artemis. It had a beautiful cubic architectural style and thick layers of whitewash!
The Chora of Folegandros was very special with its medieval castle-like town. It was the outside walls of the houses that composed the walls of the castle…! On the inside the houses were built one next to the other, with very small alleys separating them. Everyone wanted to be protected from the pirates that would often invade such places. It was charming, with the whitewashed houses, the blue doors, and the tiny churches in between.
We sat down in the central square and enjoyed a Greek coffee and rakomelo—raki which is something like grappa mixed with honey and cinnamon. Sometimes the important thing in life is just to take a moment to sit down and forget everything and just enjoy….this is what Folegandros is all about!
