Espirito Santo is the largest island in Vanuatu and thus offers a diverse group of opportunities for exploration. Jungle-clad slopes, white sandy beaches, sheltered waters, and a huge World War II history all influenced our day today. Many different options were offered for the day, and we split into different groups to enjoy what interested us the most. Some went bird watching while others enjoyed a canoe ride and a refreshing swim in a crystal clear pool. Many enjoyed an overview tour, focusing especially on the war history and visiting some of the most important sites from this era. In the afternoon, many enjoyed the waters off a tiny island and beach, surrounded by coral. All of this, with the smiling faces, warm welcomes, and beautiful string bands are what we have come to love here in Vanuatu.
For me, the highlight of the day was being able to dive on the wreck of the SS President Coolidge. Originally built as a luxury liner, the “Coolidge” was converted during the war to a troop transport. The ship was approaching the town of Luganville on Espirito Santo when it struck a mine, and was run ashore by the captain. Now, many years later, it is lying on its side, just a short distance offshore, making it one of the greatest dives in the South Pacific.
After walking into the water from the lush jungle, one quickly descends to about sixty feet and the bow of this once magnificent vessel. Now, it is slowly breaking apart and being taken over by coral and various invertebrates. Working along one side of the vessel, we pass an impressive bow gun, and enter the ship into one of the cargo holds. Here, various relics are strewn throughout, including howitzers, jeeps, and tracked vehicles. Light streams in through various holes, including old portholes. Carefully, we weave our way through assorted passages and reemerge onto what was the side of the vessel and now is the top. A check of our air and bottom time signals it is time to unfortunately begin heading up. We leave the bow behind, and head to our safety stop, surrounded by anemonefish and other colorful tropical fishes. As we sit for a few minutes, we are able to reflect not only on what an incredible dive it was, but also onto just what a marvelous destination Vanuatu is.
