We woke to a calm, gray morning in Inverie on Knoydart, the sea silky smooth as we sailed to the Isle of Eigg. During the morning journey, Robin gave a presentation on the Scotland’s community buyouts and community-owned estates. Both the Knoydart estate and the Isle of Eigg are community-owned, bought by the local people in the 1990s, two of the early community purchases of large, privately owned estates. These community buyouts were the beginning of a land reform movement that resulted in many community-owned estates and woodlands.
We arrived on the Isle of Eigg as rain and mist lowered, hiding An Sgurr, a prominent rocky peak that dominates the island’s skyline. An Sgurr (Gaelic for “The Rocky Crag”) was formed around 50 million years ago during a volcanic period. A flow of lava filled an ancient riverbed and the surrounding rock subsequently eroded down, leaving the peak as it stands today. A group of hikers set off towards the peak, reaching a viewpoint below the hidden cliffs. As the walkers returned down, An Sgurr emerged from the clouds, giving a fantastic view of the dark cliffs draped in strands of mist.
We departed Eigg headed for Tobermory, traveling around the Ardnamurchan Peninsula with its lighthouse perched on the most westerly point of the British Isles. Gannets and manx shearwaters flew past, and for a brief moment, bottlenose dolphins came to visit, leaping from the water right alongside the ship.
Tobermory’s cheerful waterfront of colorful buildings greeted us as we sailed into the harbor. An afternoon tour of the Tobermory distillery provided insight into the creation of Scotland’s iconic drink. After the tour, there were options to join Eric for a photo walk through the town, walk to a local waterfall with Robin, or independently explore the village and its many shops and pubs. In our Recap, Eric presented the fundamentals of digital photography, giving us more tools for capturing memories of our tour. The day ended with an informative talk from the Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust, complete with a display of bones and baleen.
