Early risers onboard the National Geographic Endurance witnessed our entrance into the fog-laden boundary signaling the abrupt change in sea surface temperature that characterizes the Antarctic Convergence Zone, the transition into the waters that define the Antarctic continent. When we crossed the so-called polar front and emerged from the clouds, we were met by several species of Southern Ocean seabirds whose erratic flight perfectly matched the nature of the winds that whipped across the surface of every wave crest. Royal and light-mantled sooty albatrosses dipped low into the troughs, as pintado petrels and southern fulmars broke straight through the salt spray, pausing only to skim the surface or shake water from their wings. Winged wanderers continued to surround the vessel as we retreated indoors throughout the day to learn from expedition staff presentations - from photography tips to glaciology facts to a fun collection of Antarctic curiosities - all in preparation for the next several days of exploring. The excitement and anticipation of the past two days at sea culminated in a blast of the ship’s horn and a toast to crossing the Antarctic Circle just after dinner. We can hardly wait to set our eyes (and feet!) on the continent tomorrow.
2/20/2024
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Cape Horn and Beagle Channel
The huge distances we have covered on this journey meant that our last full day was spent almost completely at sea on our return leg from Antarctica. After a merciful lie-in, we crowded the decks as we sailed past Cape Horn, the majestic headland at the bottom tip of Hornos Island, the southernmost point of Tierra del Fuego and the entire South American continent. Despite its fearsome reputation, pleasant seas allowed for an enjoyable brunch before we plunged into our presentation schedule for the morning and afternoon. Naturalist Gail Ashton related her experience of living on the Antarctica continent for 18 months, Jonny Reid discussed marine mammal acoustics and the underwater soundscapes of this region, and Jess Farrer explained how the study of whale and seal poop can tell us so much about these animals. As we entered the Beagle Channel, the stunning mountains of Tierra del Fuego lined our passage to Ushuaia. Gathering in the Ice Lounge for the captain’s farewell party, we toasted a hugely enjoyable trip and the new friends we have made.