“When Irish eyes are smiling, sure ‘tis like the morn in spring. In the lilt of Irish laughter you can hear the angels sing. When Irish hearts are happy, all the world seems bright and gay. And when Irish eyes are smiling, sure they steal your heart away.”
Our introduction to Ireland came as we circumnavigated the Skellig Islands. The largest of the group, Skellig Michael is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. During the 6th century Irish monks seeking solitude built a small cluster of corbelled beehive structures amongst the peaks. They maintained a secluded life until the 12th century when they finally departed the Skelligs for the mainland. Still clearly visible after more than a millennium, we see the steep rocky steps leading up to the monastery, truly a stairway to heaven.
Spring is in full swing at least for the seabirds that surround Little Skellig. With a population of over 20,000 pairs of breeding northern gannets, it is home to one of the largest colonies in the north Atlantic. Keen-eyed observers were also treated to Atlantic puffins, Manx shearwaters, and storm petrels. The layers of guano color the island and are a clear indicator that the seabirds have called these islands home long before the arrival of the Irish monks.
Captain Ben Lyons of National Geographic Explorer shared with us his own experience of the last time he anchored here along the Dingle Peninsula; of being greeted by the famous bottlenose dolphin, locally known as Fungie. Within moments of dropping anchor, Fungie surfaced as if on cue. Now world famous, Fungie was first sighted as a young dolphin in 1984 in these waters. Though he has been seen in the company of other wild bottlenose dolphins in the summer months, he always returns solo to seek out human interactions. For thirty years he has been attracting visitors, many of whom have traveled from distant parts of the world to meet him. Fungie is so famous in the hearts of locals, that a sculpture bearing his likeness is a centerpiece for the harbor.
Afternoon found us further exploring the Dingle Peninsula on yet another stunning day filled with sunshine. With the Skellig Islands clearly visible on the horizon, a very rare sight according to local guides, we immersed ourselves further into the green Irish landscape. To complete our Irish immersion we were treated to a concert by Sharon Shannon, one of Ireland’s best known and most respected accordionists and an icon for over 20 years.
In the lilt of Irish laughter, we heard the angels sing.
