The sky looked questionable as we boarded the jet boats for our adventure on the Snake River in Hell’s Canyon.
But luck was with us as the blue sky broke through and sun soaked the grassy cliffs surrounding us. Along our way towards the Salmon River, Snake River confluence, we saw walls of columnar basalt that looked like massive, dark drinking straws piled high. Ancient volcanic eruptions placed layer upon layer of basalt onto this land which cooled into these tremendous sculptures of twisted and towering columns. Into a few of these cliffs were carved petroglyphs representing animals and people. Wild turkeys dined on the shoreline from a limited menu of grass. These large birds took to flight over our boat, barely clearing the antennae. Bald eagles soared overhead or perched in trees gazing into the river water for a sign of movement, which would indicate fish. Bighorn sheep watched us go by and seemed to stop for us to get good photos of them. A pair of coyote scampered like pups chasing each other around a bush in a game of “Catch Me if You Can”, which we all have played at some time in our lives. Fishermen in small skiffs dotted the river, some of them showing us their prize catch of the day. The waters sparkled in the morning light. We traversed rapids with ease, in these jet boats with drafts of only eight inches! Rafting groups slid by accompanied by white water kayakers. It was a fine day on the Snake River.
The jet boats tied off to a dock at the Garden Creek Ranch, a protected property owned by the Nature Conservancy. This spot is an oasis in the high desert region of Hell’s Canyon. Fruit trees with mowed, irrigated lawns provide the perfect habitat for mule deer and wild turkeys. The mule deer are quite accustomed to people stopping here for lunch and a rest. They kept a short distance from us but seemed to have no great fear of people. Cameras clicked whenever these large-eared deer looked back at us. The turkeys went about their daily business, pecking the foliage and retiring to a dust spot for ablutions. The setting was spectacular and the food equally so. BBQ pork loin with beans, potato salad, fruit, cookies all made our American cookout complete.
As is always the case, the way back seemed shorter than the way there. However, we had another stop. This time we visited a small museum to the Snake River and an outpost where volunteers come and stay for up to a month. The woman taking advantage of this rare opportunity had stories to share of a young black bear mother and cub that frequently stop by. She went on to tell us of her efforts to deter a sub-adult black bear whose curiosity is leading it down the wrong path in life, towards her kitchen.
After the Hell’s Canyon adventure we boarded coaches for a visit to the Nez Perce National Historic Park, where a park ranger gave us a tour of the intricate and ornate artifacts on display. The day sped by and soon we were enjoying cocktails and dinner. Following our meal, naturalist David Stephens shared a deep understanding of native art and its relevance to our journey towards the mouth of the Columbia River.
