As we approached Bear Island before breakfast, light fog enshrouded the higher peaks of the southern tip of the island. Conditions were perfect for our morning Zodiac cruise: light winds, partly sunny skies, limited swell, and hundreds of thousands of birds. This is one of the greatest Zodiac cruises and in these conditions, we were in for a certain treat.
Near our anchorage, a small group of puffins were nesting in a scree slope. Many were coming to and from the nests, and we were able to approach a few on the water. However, the main bird attraction for the day were the murres, or guillemots. Two species nest here, numbering into the hundreds of thousands, if it was possible to count them all. We were here at the perfect time as the chicks were fledging. After about 20 days of sitting on the cliffs protected by their parents, the chicks jump from the cliffs and plummet into the ocean. They are unable to fly, but many successfully glide and crash into the sea, where they are joined by their parents and head out to sea. All around us on our cruise we could hear the incessant peeping of the chicks trying to maintain contact with the adults amongst the chaos of thousands of birds.
All of this was happening in amongst some of the most spectacular scenery anywhere. Vertical cliffs rise straight out of the ocean for thousands of feet, and it appeared that nearly every ledge was lined with nesting seabirds. A few waterfalls seeped through the cracks, and many of the walls were coated with a lush green plant life. Erosion has created some incredible towers and spires, as well as many tunnels. Zodiacs are the perfect way to explore this spot as we were able to go through many long tunnels at times passing within just a few feet of murres and kittiwakes. One very special tunnel, “the pearly gates,” is long, narrow, and thrilling as a driver. The southern tip of the island is a tall spire that is heavily eroded and swept by strong currents. All the while, light fog came and went up high on the peaks, creating an atmosphere that many commented looked like something from Game of Thrones.
As we left the island in the afternoon, a procession of murre adults and swimming chicks led us south towards Tromsø. Some chicks had covered at least 20 miles, swimming out with their parents to the rich feeding grounds beyond. And these waters are rich. Soon a group of tall blows led to about ten fin whales, the second largest of all animals. Mixed in were a few smaller minke whales, feasting on the abundant fish that makes this place so special.
We had perfect conditions and timing to enjoy one of the THE most spectacular Zodiac cruises anywhere!
